Cool Climate Syrah

This is a tasting I had been thinking about for several years. Today much of the Syrah (Shiraz) we see in the USA is from Australia or other warm weather production areas. Syrah is a grape that gained great fame in the Northern Rhone of France. Those wines exhibit and savory and earthy component we seldom experience with wines made outside of the Rhone. This tasting profiles "cool climate" vineyards that are located in unexpected corners of the wne world. These wines showcased the typical flavor profiles of those sites and exposed us all to what Syrah can do in a cooler environment.

Introduction

Syrah or Shiraz is a dark-skinned grape grown throughout the world and used primarily to produce powerful red. Whether sold as Syrah or Shiraz, these wines enjoy great popularity.

Syrah is used as a varietal and is also blended. Following several years of strong planting, Syrah was estimated in 2004 to be the world's 7th most grown grape at 142,600 hectares (352,000 acres).

DNA profiling in 1999 found Syrah to be the offspring of two obscure grapes from southeastern France, Durez and Mondeuse Blanche. It should not be confused with Petite Sirah, a synonym for Durif, a cross of Syrah with Peloursin dating from 1880.

Syrah has a long documented history in the Rhone region of Southeastern France, and it was not known if it had originated in that region. In 1998, a study conducted by Carole Meredith's research group in the Department of Vinitculture and Enolog at UC Davis used DNA typing and extensive grape reference material from the vinticultural research station in Montpellier, France to conclude that Syrah was the offspring of the grape varieties Dureza (father) and Mondeuse Blanche (mother).

Syrah Wines

Syrah is widely used to make a dry red table wine, which can be both varietal and blended. Four main uses can be distinguished:

• Varietal Syrah or Shiraz. Of the better-known wines, this is the style of Hermitage in northern Rhône or Australian Shiraz.
• Syrah blended with a small amount of Viognier . This is the traditional style of Côte-Rôtie in northern Rhône.
• Syrah as a roughly equal blending component for Cabernet Sauvignon. In modern times, this blend originated in Australia, so it is often known as Shiraz-Cabernet.
• Syrah as a minor blending component for Grenache and Mourvedre. This is the traditional style of Chateauneuf-du-Pape of southern Rhône, and this blend is often referred to as GSM in Australia.

Due to their concentrated flavors and high tannin content, many premium Syrah wines are at their best after some considerable bottle aging. In exceptional cases, this may be 15 years or longer.

Syrah has one of the highest recommended wine serving temperatures at 65 °F (18 °C).

Taste and flavors

Wines made from Syrah are often powerfully flavored and full-bodied. The variety produces wines with a wide range of flavor notes, depending on the climate and soils where it is grown, as well as other vinticultural practices chosen.

Flavor/Aroma characters can range from:

· Violets

· Plum

· Berries (usually dark as opposed to red)

· Chocolate

· Espresso

· Black pepper

· White pepper

No one aroma can be called "typical" though blackberry and pepper are often noticed. With time in the bottle these "primary" notes are moderated and then supplemented with:

· Earthy

· Savory

"tertiary" notes such as

· Leather

· Truffle.

"Secondary" flavor and aroma notes are those associated with several things, generally winemakers' practices (such as oak barrel and yeast regimes).

Flight 1- Comparison of Cool Climate vs. Warm Climate

· 2007 Pax Kobler Family Vineyard Syrah-Sonoma-Drawing inspiration from the savory wines of Cote Rotie in the Northern Rhone this wine is fermented with a high percentage of whole cluster and anywhere between 8-12% Viognier. The Viognier “lifts” the aromatics, adds a floral element to the wine, and softens the rustic texture of cool climate, whole cluster fermented Syrah. While often lighter in body, this wine broadens and deepens with cellar age. The youthful black olive tapenade and white pepper with age add oregano, smoked bacon and lamb, along with black brambly fruit associations.

· 2006 Two Hands-Bella’s Garden- Ruby-red. Energetic red and dark berry, floral and mineral scents along with a hint of spun sugar. Lively, sharply focused black raspberry and cherry preserve flavors are surprisingly weightless, with back-end mineral bite adding energy. A vibrant, deeply flavored shiraz that's very inviting right now but has the balance to age. WS-93pts.

A big (15.6% alcohol) wine, the 2006 Bella’s Garden nevertheless comes across as balanced and drinkable in its youth, marrying a rich, creamy texture with mixed berry fruit and hints of mint and vanilla. Avoids any cooked character, finishing long and fresh.

Flight 2- Cool Climate Syrah

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2007 Cline Cool Climate Syrah –Sonoma-Cool Climate Syrah offers rich blueberry and black pepper characters finishing with a hint of cedar. The wine's bright acidity makes it a great match for food.

· 2006 Cristom Syrah –Willamette Valley-Deeply colored, almost inky. Wild Blueberry and various, black-white-pink, peppercorn notes are the predominant aromas, along with a subtle vanilla scent. Ripe on the palate,, round and well balanced. It has a juicy texture and a long pleasurable finish. 10% whole cluster fermentation with 22 months in barrel-30% new. Cropped at 2 tons per acre on the warmest site at Cristom. The Syrah was grafted onto Chardonnay vines.

· 2005 Jacob Williams Reserve Syrah –Columbia Valley-Dominant fruit and the spice is persuasive. Black peppercorns lead to ultra smooth layers of mineral and spice. This well known classic boasts a graceful, sophisticated finish. 24 months on French Oak.

· 2007 Pax Cuvee Christine Syrah-Sonoma- Firm and structured, with full-bodied flavors built around dried berry, mineral, spice and cedar, gaining depth and traction on the finish, where the minerality is complex-WS 91pts.. Parker says: 100% Syrah with 35% whole clusters. It exhibits plenty of meaty, berry fruit intertwined with underbrush, pepper, and tapenade characteristics offered in a distinctive, Crozes-Hermitage/northern Rhone style. Medium-bodied with excellent fruit, it should drink well for 7-10 years." RP 90-92pts

· 1999 Domaine De Bonserine Cote Rotie-Cote Brune-Very dark and almost opaque. Secondary and Tertiary aromas on the nose. Dark fruits with coffee and showing some oak.
Palate shows a similar profile. On the modern side of the appelation.

· 1999 Clarendon Hills Brookman Vineyard Shiraz –Australia-. With 13.5% alcohol, modest for a Clarendon Hills, this dark ruby/purple-colored wine offers a spicy nose of black fruits intermixed with ketchup and vanilla. The wine is excellent, full-bodied, pure, ripe, and impressive. It is measured and elegant.