In December we held our annual planning meeting on the houseboat of Arlene Harwood. With appetizer and a bunch of sparking wine and about 2 hours we were able to pull together the upcoming schedule for 2011.
A big thank you goes to Arlene for hosting this event and I want to thank all of the members who stepped up and hosted events in 2010. This should really be a special year.
-January- January 21st-Feast of St. Vincent - Oregon Culinary Institute
-February- February 20th-Grgich Hills Winery Event Hosted by Sharon House
-March- March 20th-James Beard Chefs Event - Multnomah Athletic Club Hosted by Judy Erdman & Dick Stinson
-April- April 17th-Red Burgundy Hosted by Roger & Chris Wooley
-May- May 5th-8th-Spring Fling-Paso Robles
Hosted by Sam Sundeleaf & Norm Schoen
-June- June 26th-TBD Hosted by Doc Wilson
-July- July 17th-Willamette Valley Bus Tour - Salem Hosted by Yvonne Smith
-August- August 20th-21st-Initiation
-September- September 18th-Syrah- Northern Rhone vs. E. Washingon
Steve Lutz, Kimberly Mick & Yvonne Smith
-October- October 16th-Italian-Amarone Hosted by Julie Virell
-November- November 20th-Austrailian - Yvonne Newman
-December- December 11th-Planning meeting Hosted by Arlene Harwood
A big "thank you" goes out to Kimberly Mick and Steve Lutz for hosting the September event at their home. In September we had a chance to explore the White wines of Burgundy and this gave us a chance to see what Chardonnay does on the other side of the world. This lineup really delivered. In general the wines were crisp, concentrated, complex and everything you could want in a white wine. With only two wines of the 11 wine flight coming in at more that $30/bottle this was a tremendous group of wines
Second Flight 2008 Sineann-Willamette Valley 2008 Patricia Green-Croft Vineyard 2008 Bethel Heights-Willamette Valley 2008 Seven of Hearts-Willamette Valley 2008 J. Christopher-Willamette Valley 2008 Westrey-Abbey Ridge Vineyard
Sam Sundeleaf-Table Spokesman
Robert Volz-our own almost Master Sommelier
The 2008 Willamette Valley Pinot Noir's are supposed to be the vintage of the decade. This month we tasted a representative sampling of large and small producers with an eye on seeing what this vintage might hold for the future. We started with a small first flight that showcased a 2006, 2007 and 2008 wine. Next up we did a flight of the fabled 2008. In my humble opinion the 2006 Panther Creek-Shea Vineyard beat the pants off of everything in the first two flights. As good as the 2008 vintage is supposed to be, this lineup seemed awkward, angular and just not a QPR (quality price ratio) vintage. This vintage seems to have a ton (figuratively) of fruit, but the wines are not showing much in the way of spice, complexity or nuance. Definitely the wines of the night were the single vineyard Willamette Valley Pinot's cracked when it was time for dinner. Standouts include a 2006 Archery Summit-Premier Cuvee, a 2004 Patricia Green-Goldschmidt Vineyard and a 2006 Domaine Drouhin-Laurene.
Usually we take a winery tour just once a year. In July long time club members Liz Carpenter and Yvonne Smith organized a Charter Bus tour out to the Columbia Gorge about 90 minutes East of Portland. While the Columbia Gorge appellation is almost as close as many of the wineries in the Willamette Valley, the wine experience is an entirely different world. Instead of Pinot Noir, Pinot Gris and Chardonnay the grape varietal in the Columbia Gorge are Rhone varietals (Syrah, Mouvedre, Viognier) and Bordeaux varietals (Cabernet, Merlot, Cabernet Franc). The tour that was put together included:
Erin Glen-The Dalles, Oregon Syncline-Lyle, Washington Jacob Willams-Lyle, Washington The Pines 1852-Hood River
The tour left Portland early Sunday morning on the 18th and we were treated to Sparkling wines on our way to the Dalles and Erin Glenn winery. After a tour and lunch of Salmon, Roasted Asparagus and wonderful Potato salad we were on our way to Syncline Winery. Syncline is just across the Columbia River from The Dalles and they specialize in Rhone varietal grapes. Next up was Jacob Williams (also in Lyle) and then off to The Pines 1852 where we were treated to there The Pines vineyard Zinfandel which comes from a vineyard that is the oldest in Oregon (100+ years........and one of my favorites). We had a wonderful trip and an amazing time. If you missed this trip......it sucks to be you!
This is a tasting I had been thinking about for several years. Today much of the Syrah (Shiraz) we see in the USA is from Australia or other warm weather production areas. Syrah is a grape that gained great fame in the Northern Rhone of France. Those wines exhibit and savory and earthy component we seldom experience with wines made outside of the Rhone. This tasting profiles "cool climate" vineyards that are located in unexpected corners of the wne world. These wines showcased the typical flavor profiles of those sites and exposed us all to what Syrah can do in a cooler environment.
Introduction
Syrah or Shiraz is a dark-skinned grape grown throughout the world and used primarily to produce powerful red. Whether sold as Syrah or Shiraz, these wines enjoy great popularity.
Syrah is used as a varietal and is also blended. Following several years of strong planting, Syrah was estimated in 2004 to be the world's 7th most grown grape at 142,600 hectares (352,000 acres).
DNA profiling in 1999 found Syrah to be the offspring of two obscure grapes from southeastern France, Durez and Mondeuse Blanche. It should not be confused with Petite Sirah, a synonym for Durif, a cross of Syrah with Peloursin dating from 1880.
Syrah has a long documented history in the Rhone region of Southeastern France, and it was not known if it had originated in that region. In 1998, a study conducted by Carole Meredith's research group in the Department of Vinitculture and Enolog at UC Davis used DNA typing and extensive grape reference material from the vinticultural research station in Montpellier, France to conclude that Syrah was the offspring of the grape varieties Dureza (father) and Mondeuse Blanche (mother).
Syrah Wines
Syrah is widely used to make a dry red table wine, which can be both varietal and blended. Four main uses can be distinguished:
Varietal Syrah or Shiraz. Of the better-known wines, this is the style of Hermitage in northern Rhône or Australian Shiraz.
Syrah blended with a small amount of Viognier . This is the traditional style of Côte-Rôtie in northern Rhône.
Syrah as a roughly equal blending component for Cabernet Sauvignon. In modern times, this blend originated in Australia, so it is often known as Shiraz-Cabernet.
Syrah as a minor blending component for Grenache and Mourvedre. This is the traditional style of Chateauneuf-du-Pape of southern Rhône, and this blend is often referred to as GSM in Australia.
Due to their concentrated flavors and high tannin content, many premium Syrah wines are at their best after some considerable bottle aging. In exceptional cases, this may be 15 years or longer.
Syrah has one of the highest recommended wine serving temperatures at 65 °F (18 °C).
Taste and flavors
Wines made from Syrah are often powerfully flavored and full-bodied. The variety produces wines with a wide range of flavor notes, depending on the climate and soils where it is grown, as well as other vinticultural practices chosen.
Flavor/Aroma characters can range from:
·Violets
·Plum
·Berries (usually dark as opposed to red)
·Chocolate
·Espresso
·Black pepper
·White pepper
No one aroma can be called "typical" though blackberry and pepper are often noticed. With time in the bottle these "primary" notes are moderated and then supplemented with:
·Earthy
·Savory
"tertiary" notes such as
·Leather
·Truffle.
"Secondary" flavor and aroma notes are those associated with several things, generally winemakers' practices (such as oak barrel and yeast regimes).
Flight 1- Comparison of Cool Climate vs. Warm Climate
·2007 Pax Kobler Family Vineyard Syrah-Sonoma-Drawing inspiration from the savory wines of Cote Rotie in the Northern Rhone thiswine is fermented with a high percentage of whole cluster and anywhere between 8-12% Viognier. The Viognier “lifts” the aromatics, adds a floral element to the wine, and softens the rustic texture of cool climate, whole cluster fermented Syrah. While often lighter in body, this wine broadens and deepens with cellar age. The youthful black olive tapenade and white pepper with age add oregano, smoked bacon and lamb, along with black brambly fruit associations.
·2006 Two Hands-Bella’s Garden- Ruby-red. Energetic red and dark berry, floral and mineral scents along with a hint of spun sugar. Lively, sharply focused black raspberry and cherry preserve flavors are surprisingly weightless, with back-end mineral bite adding energy. A vibrant, deeply flavored shiraz that's very inviting right now but has the balance to age. WS-93pts.
A big (15.6% alcohol) wine, the 2006 Bella’s Garden nevertheless comes across as balanced and drinkable in its youth, marrying a rich, creamy texture with mixed berry fruit and hints of mint and vanilla. Avoids any cooked character, finishing long and fresh.
Flight 2- Cool Climate Syrah
·
2007 Cline Cool Climate Syrah –Sonoma-Cool Climate Syrah offers rich blueberry and black pepper characters finishing with a hint of cedar. The wine's bright acidity makes it a great match for food.
·2006 Cristom Syrah –Willamette Valley-Deeply colored, almost inky. Wild Blueberry and various, black-white-pink, peppercorn notes are the predominant aromas, along with a subtle vanilla scent. Ripe on the palate,, round and well balanced. It has a juicy texture and a long pleasurable finish. 10% whole cluster fermentation with 22 months in barrel-30% new. Cropped at 2 tons per acre on the warmest site at Cristom. The Syrah was grafted onto Chardonnay vines.
·2005 Jacob Williams Reserve Syrah –Columbia Valley-Dominant fruitand the spice is persuasive. Black peppercorns lead to ultra smooth layers of mineral and spice. This well known classic boasts a graceful, sophisticated finish. 24 months on French Oak.
·2007 Pax Cuvee Christine Syrah-Sonoma-Firm and structured, with full-bodied flavors built around dried berry, mineral, spice and cedar, gaining depth and traction on the finish, where the minerality is complex-WS 91pts.. Parker says: 100% Syrah with 35% whole clusters. It exhibits plenty of meaty, berry fruit intertwined with underbrush, pepper, and tapenade characteristics offered in a distinctive, Crozes-Hermitage/northern Rhone style. Medium-bodied with excellent fruit, it should drink well for 7-10 years." RP 90-92pts
·1999 Domaine De Bonserine Cote Rotie-Cote Brune-Very dark and almost opaque. Secondary and Tertiary aromas on the nose. Dark fruits with coffee and showing some oak. Palate shows a similar profile. On the modern side of the appelation.
·1999 Clarendon Hills Brookman Vineyard Shiraz –Australia-. With 13.5% alcohol, modest for a Clarendon Hills, this dark ruby/purple-colored wine offers a spicy nose of black fruits intermixed with ketchup and vanilla. The wine is excellent, full-bodied, pure, ripe, and impressive. It is measured and elegant.
Sometimes reality exceeds your greatest expectations. On April 22nd-25th Portland Confrerie made their annual Spring Fling trip. This year the destination was Walla Walla, Washington. This little Eastern Washington town seems like an unlikely place for a world-class wine region, but trust me it is all that and a bag of chips. Jaydene and John Chandler were our gracious hosts and with Jaydene having grown up in this area she really wanted to showcase what Walla Walla is all about.
Thursday at Gramercy
Friday morning at L'Ecole 41
The itinerary on Friday was:
L'Ecole 41, Long Shadows, Three Rivers for Lunch and lastly Northstar.
Long Shadows & Chihuly glass artwork in the background Dale Chihuly chandelier at Long Shadows Winery
Abeja Abeja is Spanish for Bee
Rick Isenhower at Saturday's tasting panel
The Saturday events were a visit to Walla Walla Vintners and a tasting panel later in the afternoon that brought in Rick Small from Woodward Canyon, Rick Isenhower from Isenhower Cellars, Caleb Foster of Buty and David Stevenson of Stevenson Cellars.
The evening festivities consisted of a wonderful sit down dinner for 30+ people at the historic Whitman Hotel. The entire weekend was wonderful and Jaydene and John completely outdid themselves. Thank you so much!
What is better than a bottle of Adelsheim Pinot Noir? How about 10 bottles. On March 21st this past month Portland Confrerie had a chance to sample a vertical of Adelsheim Wineries Willamette Valley Pinot Noir. We tasted the years from 1988 through 1997. Below is a bit of the history of the winery from the humble beginnings to the present. Click on the below tasting notes to see my personal take on these wines. What I appreciate about these wines is that one of the pioneering families of the Oregon wine business (David and Ginny Adelsheim) are still very actively involved with this business. The moxie that these early grape growers and wine producers had just continues to amaze me (conventional wisdom was that the Willamette Valley was too cool to produce vinifera grapes). Well, we all know how this story turned out. So, a tip of the hat to the Lett's, Adelsheim's, Erath's, Campbell's, & Fuller's for taking a big chance and leading to where we are today
Adelsheim Pinot Noir
1971
On a beautiful June day in 1971, David Adelsheim and Ginny Adelsheim stood above an open field and were taken with the beauty of its orange and purple wildflowers. Five hundred feet below, Oregon's north Willamette Valley stretched out in a patchwork of orchards, pasture and native trees. The field, rich with clay-loam soil, had a gentle southern exposure and was sheltered by the Chehalem Mountains. The Adelsheims had dreamed of planting a vineyard in the area since returning from a summer in Europe, where they were inspired by the artisanal foods and wines they encountered.
1972
In 1972, the Adelsheims began planting their original 15-acre vineyard at Quarter Mile Lane with Pinot noir, Chardonnnay, Pinot gris, and Riesling, relying on family and friends for assistance. Although the Chehalem Mountains were, at this time, an unproven viticultural area, the Adelsheims were undaunted in pursuit of their dream to produce exceptional wines in Oregon's north Willamette Valley.
1978
Working in a cramped basement winery with a simple crusher and press, and 20 Burgundy barrels, David Adelsheim made Adelsheim Vineyard's first 1,300 cases of wine for commercial release in 1978; tiny quantities of Pinot noir, Chardonnay and Riesling from the estate vineyard were produced, along with Semillon and Merlot. As the Quarter Mile Lane vineyard matured to full yield and grapes were purchased from other growers, annual production doubled every two years.
1982
As Adelsheim Vineyard continued to grow, the need for a new production facility became critical. A 6,000 square-foot winery, adjacent to the Adelsheim's home, was built in 1982. Barrels, tanks, a bottling line and still more barrels were added until this winery was also filled to capacity.
1989
The first vineyard expansion was in 1989, with the lease of a 19-acre site across the road from the original estate vineyard at Quarter Mile Lane. Today, Bryan Creek Vineyard remains an important source of Pinot noir, Pinot gris and Pinot blanc. A 52-acre site was also purchased at a lower elevation in the Chehalem Valley. Planted with Pinot gris and Burgundian clones of Pinot noir and Chardonnnay, the Calkins Lane Vineyard is also home to the current Adelsheim Vineyard winery.
1994
Co-owners Jack and Lynn Loacker joined Adelsheim Vineyard in 1994, and began planting Ribbon Springs Vineyard in 1995. This exceptional 120-acre site on the Ribbon Ridge spur of the Chehalem Mountains has provided Pinot noir and Pinot gris grapes since 1998.
1997
In 1997, a state-of-the-art, 35,000 square-foot, gravity-flow winery was completed at Calkins Lane Vineyard. Combining function with understated elegance, this 40,000 case capacity facility provides the quality controls demanded by a "hands-off" winemaking approach. A two-level, gravity-flow fermentation room allows for gentle grape movement and four underground barrel caves utilize pre-cast concrete arches and temperature-controlled floors to provide optimal temperature and humidity for slow, cool aging of their Pinot noir, Chardonnay and Syrah.
2001
Bringing with him twelve years experience in working with Pinot noir, Dave Paige joined Adelsheim Vineyard as winemaker in September of 2001. Dave provides fresh vision regarding winemaking techniques and equipment and applies great passion for balance in crafting their fruit-driven, richly-textured wines.
2006
The addition of Viticulturist Chad Vargas to the Adelsheim Vineyard team in the fall of 2006 brought a new level of intellectual ability to our vineyard operations. His BS and MS degrees in Crop Science and Plant Pathology support advances in viticulture, and thus fruit quality, leading to even further consistency and intensity in the wines we produce. His leadership in getting our estate vineyards certified under the LIVE program has put us in the forefront of vineyard operations.
2008
An extensive addition to the winery on Calkins Lane was completed in September 2008. The new facilities have given winemaker Dave Paige the ability to bring in more fruit at one time than was previously possible. Two sorting tables and extra fermentation space ensure that we always have the fermentation capacity to match harvest demands. The addition also further facilitated our ability to craft small lots that will insure a greater variety of distinctive single vineyard Pinot noirs.
2009
Our new tasting room was unveiled to the public in April 2009. For the first time in our company's history, we are now able to match the facility to the high level of hospitality, customer service and wine quality that we provide to our visitors. This well thought-out and designed space offers beautiful views of our Calkins Lane Vineyard. With an emphasis on upper-tier Pinot noirs and a tour program created to provide our guests an elegant experience, the Adelsheim tasting room is a "must visit" destination during your next stay in wine country.
TODAY
Today, the Adelsheim Vineyard estate has grown to include eleven exceptional vineyard sites in the Willamette Valley, totaling 190 acres. A new generation of experienced wine industry professionals has joined with David Adelsheim in our passionate endeavor to lead the industry in crafting consistently transcendent wines.
On January 15, 2010 the Portland, Oregon Chapter of Confrerie de Saint Vincent des Macon held their annual Feast of St. Vincent. The event was once again held at the Oregon Culinary Institute Restaurant. The evening started off with a Champagne reception and the two wines pour were a Domain Coutier and a Droppier Special No-dosage. The guest were treated to a host of appetizers that included Prosciutto Wrapped Shrimp, Duck Pate w/Chutney Canapés,andOlivetti Crostini .
Clockwise top to bottom: Pan Roasted Duck Breast, Venison,
Braised Pork Shoulder & Seafood Ravioli
The group of 30 enjoyed entrees that included Grilled Venison, Braised Pork Shoulder, Pan Roasted Duck Breast and Seafood Ravioli.
After guest introductions and a brief background on the restaurant by their staff the group was led in its Pray of St. Vincent by Chapter Historian Doc Wilson.
A great many wines were shared throughout the night including Bordeaux from Leoville Las Cases,Grand Puy Lacoste, Pinot Noir from Adelsheim, Williams-Selyem and also some Single Vineyard Turley Zinfandel.
Greeting Portland Confrerie! We have put together a very special group of tastings for 2010.
Thanks to members who have volunteered to host tastings and also members who have volunteered for officer positions. 2010 should be a great year for Portland Confrerie.
-January-
January 15, 2010: Feast of Saint Vincent to be held at the Oregon Culinary Institute. After an enthusiastic response to our event at OCI, we are back for a second time. This is an open event (invite friends).
-February-Chateauneuf du Pape-
February 21, 2010: Chateauneuf du Pape to be hosted by Yvonne Smith. Venue TBD
This has become an annual event for Yvonne to host and we look forward to another stellar event.
-March-Argentine Malbec-
March 21, 2010: Argentina Malbec to be host by Judy Erdman and Dick Stinson. The quality to price ratio of these wines is off the chart and we look forward to seeing what Judy and Dick put together for our enjoyment.
-April-Spring Fling Walla Walla-
April 22-25, 2010: A trip to Walla Walla that is being put together by our long time members and friends Jaydene and John Chandler. If you haven't been to Walla Walla, expect to be blown away by the quality of the wines coming out of this area. There has also been some mention of a smaller group going over a day earlier to visit the Red Mountain appellation (maybe even a special visit to Blackwood Canyon) on the way over.
-May-Red Burgundy-
May 16, 2010: Red Burgundy at the home of Roger & Chris Wooley. This too has become an annual event and we look forward to another wonderful tasting of some of the best Pinot Noir on earth.
-June-Cool Climate Syrah-
June 27, 2010: Norm Schoen will be hosting a tasting of Syrah wines from cool climate locations. Syrah, much like Pinot Noir does very interesting things when not grown in a warm climate. Prepare to expect the unexpected.
-July-?-
July 18, 2010: We are exploring the possibility of a 2 day trip out the the Columbia Gorge.
Details as they develop.
-August-Initiation-
August 21, 2010 (Saturday): We have tentative plans to hold our initiation at Vista Hills Winery in Dundee.
-September-Chardonnay-
September 19, 2010: A Chardonnay tasting at the home of Kimberly Mick and Steve Lutz.
We look forward to seeing what interesting wines Kimberly and Steve pull together.
-October-Sparkling Wine-
October 17, 2010: Julie Virell is putting together a collection of Sparkling Wines (just before the holidays!). We will get a sampling of Sparkling wines from around the world and you should expect wine from unexpected places.
-November-Zin-O-Rama-
November 21, 2010: Doc Wilson and Julie Virell will host one of the favorite events of the year, the infamous Zin-O-Rama. Big, bold, juicy, high octane wines that are uniquely "American".
-December-Planning Meeting-
December 12, 2010: We head back to Arlene Harwood's boathouse for our annual planning meeting.
