Monday, March 30, 2009

Chateauneuf du Pape


Once again, a big "Thank you" goes out to Yvonne Smith for
hosting the March Confrerie event. The wines were very nice and we all
gained more insight as to why The wines from Chateauneuf du Pape have been gaining respect from around the world.

The event began a 3:00pm with the starter wine and about 45 minutes later the formal tasting began. Guests were introduced and we want to say how nice it was to see Jack Duey back in our midst

After an update of our upcoming Spring Fling to Southern Oregon by Lis Cooper we were treated to some wine education by our very own Doc Wilson.
Doc Wilson was kind enough to give us a brief overview of the appellation and the grapes used in the production of the white and red wines of Chateauneuf du Pape.

Châteauneuf-du-Pape translates as "New Castle of the Pope," and indeed, the history of this commune and its wine is firmly entwined with papal history. In 1308, Pope Clement V, former Archbishop of Bordeaux, relocated the papacy to the city of Avignon. Clement V and subsequent "Avignon Popes" were said to be great lovers of wine and did much to promote it during the seventy-year duration of the Avignon Papacy. At the time, winegrowing around the town of Avignon was anything but illustrious. While the Avignon Papacy did much to advance the notoriety of Burgundy wines, they were also promoting viticulture of the surrounding area, more specifically the area 5–10 km north of Avignon, close to the banks of the Rhône River. Prior to the Avignon Papacy, viticulture of the area had been initiated and maintained by the Bishops of Avignon, largely for local consumption.
Clement V was succeeded by John XXII, who regularly drank the wines from the vineyards to the north, as well as Burgundy wine, and did much to improve viticultural practices there. Under John XXII, the wines of this area came to be known as "Vin du Pape"; this term later became Châteauneuf-du-Pape. John XXII is also responsible for erecting the famous castle that stands as a symbol for the appellation.

The village and three other surrounding communes produce wine, and Châteauneuf-du-Pape is an Appellation d'Origine Contrôlée (AOC) in the southern Rhône wine region. Unlike its northern Rhône neighbors, Châteauneuf-du-Pape permits thirteen different varieties of grape; the blend is usually predominantly Grenache. Other red grapes include Cinsault, Counoise, Mourvèdre, Muscardin, Syrah, Terret Noir, and Vaccarèse. White grapes include Grenache Blanc, Bourboulenc, Clairette, Picardin, Roussanne, and Picpoul. In recent years, the trend has been to include fewer (or even none) of the allowed white varieties and rely heavily (or solely) upon the Grenache, Mourvedre, and Syrah. One may suspect that this is a response to international wine-market trends and the desire to have this sometimes-rustic wine appeal to a broader commercial audience.
Before wine critic Robert M. Parker, Jr. began promoting them, the wines of Châteauneuf were considered rustic and of limited appeal in the U.S. However, his influence increased their price more than fourfold in a decade. In gratitude, the Châteauneuf Winemakers Union pushed for his becoming an honorary citizen of the village.

These wines are wonderful with food and they offer incredible layers of fruit, smoked meat, garrigue, earth, stone, and animal scents and flavors. You will hear the terms "rustic", "brooding" and maybe even "backward" when these wines are described, but you will certainly know you aren't drinking a Two-Buck Chuck when you enjoy these wines. What they may lack in polish and finesse, they more than make up for in complexity, interest, structure and intensity. While there are 13 grape varietals allowed for the production of red Chateauneuf du Pape, typically the blend of grapes is heavy on the Grenache and then followed by equal parts Mouvedre and Syrah and maybe some trace percentages of Cinsault.

We began our tasting with:

Telegraphe Chateauneuf du Pape Blanc 2006 – The production of white wines in Chateauneuf du Pape is limited and this estate makes a very balanced, savory white wine that is food friendly and free of any apparent new oak barrel aging (typical for the appellation).
Telegramme Chateauneuf du Pape Rouge 2006 –Tight, tart fruit with spice on the nose. This blend of 90% Grenache and 10% Mouvedre garnered a score of 88 pts. from Wine Spectator.
Chante Perdrix Chateauneuf du Pape Rouge 2006 –Ripe purple fruit, medium bodied with a hint of black licorice and a long finish. The wine is a blend of 80% Grenache with the balance being made up of Syrah, Mouvedre and Muscardin.
Mas de Boiszulan Chateauneuf du Pape Rouge 2006 – A savory nose, purple fruit, licorice and a wine with good structure and aging potential. This is a blend of 75% Grenache, 15% Syrah and 10% Mouvedre and it was given a 91pt. score by Wine Spectator.

Domaine Lucien Barrot Chateauneuf du Pape Rouge 2005- A grapey nose with a savory-thyme/garrigue note. Good balance and the wine is a blend of 80% Grenache and 20% Syrah. Wine Spectator gave this 93pts.
Perrin Sinnards Chateauneuf du Pape Rouge 2005- Smokey nose with great red/purple fruit showing through. Well balanced with a bit of barnyard showing on the finish. This wine is a blend of 70% Grenache, 15% Syrah, 15%Mouvedre and is scored 92 pts. in Wine Spectator and a 91 by Parker.
Galet de Papes Viellies Vignes Chateuneuf du Pape Rouge 2005- Red fruit showing through-raspberry and black pepper-yum! This is a blend of 60% Grenache, 30% Mouvedre and 10% Syrah……….I would have guessed the Syrah component to have been higher. 92pts. by Steven Tanzer.

Vieux Telegraphe “La Crau” 2006- 93 points Wine Spectator: " very grippy style, with lots of sweet tapenade, tobacco, hot stone and braised chestnut notes weaving through a core of dark currant and fig fruit. There's a nice twinge of lavender on the structured finish. For the cellar. Best from 2010 through 2028." (11/08) 92 points Stephen Tanzer's International Wine Cellar, Jan/Feb 09: Vivid red. Impressively complex bouquet of raspberry, dried cherry, garrigue and flowers. Exotic apricot and floral honey notes come up with air and carry onto the palate, which shows sweet red fruit flavors, a smoky quality and a velvety texture. This very elegant wine is already putting on a seductive show. Finishes smooth, juicy and very long." 92+ points Robert Parker (10/08) 14.5% abv.

Chateau Beaucastel 2006- Robert Parker says: Dense plum/ruby/purple color is followed by a big, sweet perfume of black truffles, camphor, earth, incense, new saddle leather, and loads of peppery, blackberry, and herb-infused, meaty, black cherry fruit. Deep, full-bodied, and dense, with sweet tannin, this explosively rich Chateauneuf is a stronger effort than the 2005, 2004, or 2003. Anticipated maturity: 2012-2028." 95 pts.

After the tasting the group set up a potluck supper and dishes including a Roasted leg of lamb, meatballs, pasta, a rich buttered rice dish, assorted salads and cheeses were served.

As promised I have included a description of the term “Garrigue”.

To understand the term "garrigue" I think the following description by Daniel Brunier (owner of Vieux Telegraphe) is very apt, he says:

“The garrigue. That’s the place where nothing else will grow. It is the domaine of the wild lavender, wild rosemary, and scrub oak. It is a place austere and hospitable at once. With nothing more than your nose, you’ll know you are there! But if is is possible to stretch out on the ground without getting jabbed in the back or rear end, you are not really in the garrigue, because in the true garrigue, you’d need to find a flat rock just to sit down. The garrigue smells so good, I can smell it just thinking about it. And in the summer heat, if you piss in the garrigue it is as if you had prepared an herb tea. It is so fragrant, but the garrigue is never silent because it is teeming with life.”

Sunday, March 15, 2009

2009 Calendar of Events

-March 15th-
Chateauneuf du Pape hosted by Yvonne Smith at Ashiyu Foot Massage.

-April 23rd-26th-
Spring Fling in Southern Oregon

-May 17th-
White Burgundy to be hosted by Roger Wooley at the home of
Roger and Chris Wooley

-June 28th-
The wines of Argentina hosted by Norm Schoen at the home of
Dick Stinson and Judy Erdman

-July 19th-
The Alsace region hosted by Kimberly Mick and Steve Lutz at their home

-August 23rd-
Initiation will be hosted by Bill Stoller at Stoller Vineyards
Doc will do a Taste A Vin decanting by candlelight as part of the
ceremony. The tasting will be Old Oregon Pinots’.

-September-
This event will be either Middle Eastern wines and
will be hosted by Jaydene and John Chandler at their home.

-October-
Yvonne Smith will once again be hosting this event at Ashivu
Foot Spa. It will be “ABS” (Anything but Shiraz) from Australia.

-November-
Oregon Reds, to be hosted by Doc Wilson and Eileen Hines.
Location will most likely be at the home of Jaydene and John Chandler.

-December-
Annual Planning Meeting (Champagne). To be held on Arlene Harwoods’
houseboat, weather permitting.




2009 Officers

Chancelier
Norm Schoen


Co-Vice Chanceliers
Sam Sundaleaf and Dick Stinson

Secretary
To be appointed by the Chancelier

Treasurer
Kimberly Mick

Sergeant At Arms
Arlene Harwood

Historian
Doc Wilson

Sunday, October 5, 2008

Oregon Pinot Noir

Professionals at work

A big thanks goes out to Robert Volz for providing his Wine Bar "Pour" for this
tasting.
The starter wines were served along with grapes (Chardonnay, Reisling,
Pinot Grey, and Pinot Noir) to sample from the vineyard to compare with
the wines.

The event was called to order by Chancelier Norm Schoen, at 3:30 p.m.
Norm welcomed us to the tasting as well as asking for the introduction of
our guests. There were 20 attendees, including guest Sam Stoddard,
Tom Harvey & Andria Shirk as well as
grower/vintner; Mike & Robin Murto , from Murto Vineyard and Cleo’s Hill Wines; and
Gavin Joll from White Rose Wines.


Norm announced that the next tasting would be hosted by John and Jaydene
Chandler on October 19, 2008. The featured wines will be Eastern
Washington and Walla Walla Valley.

Chancelier Schoen then turned the meeting over to host, Jan Cullivan to
present the tasting. Jan gave an excellent history of the wines and a
hand out about the Willamette Valley wind industry which included
articles about the wineries that produced the wines we were tasting.
Also, the people from two of wineries that were in attendance told us
about the wines they had produced.

This was a blind tasting presented in two flights of five (5) Pinot
Noir’s per flight.

The first flight consisted of:

1. 2004 Anthony Dell/ Bears
2. 2001 Medicci
3. 2005 Murto
4. 2004 Boedecker
5. 2006 Dundee Hills (Norm & Sam)


The second flight consisted of:

6. 2005 Freedom Hill
7. 2006 Patricia Green
8. 2001 Panther Creek
9. 2004 White Rose
10. 2005 Dundee Hills (Norm & Sam).

These wines were tasted blind, so it is kind of like the "Unknown Comic", except for wine
The great thing about these events is that you really get a chance to smell and taste and throw out random comments about how stuff tastes. The downside is when you have the winemakers in attendance (we had three) you just hope that none of the wines they brought is going to be an embarrassment (none were).
The only REALLY funky wine of the night was a 2001 Panther Creek-Bednarik Vineyard that tasted like a slightly older Bordeaux (not exactly what I am looking for in a Pinot Noir).
Tasting or drinking?

Below are my tasting notes of the day and if you click the photo you can actually read what I had to say.

Notes

Wednesday, August 27, 2008

Georges N. Marie-Victoire

Georges N. Marie-Victoire

Photo Georges N. Marie-Victoire December 24, 1920-August 12, 2008 Georges was born in Constantine, Algeria, the third child of Robert and Jeanne Marie-Victoire. He is survived by Ollie, his wife of 62 years; daughter, Jeanine; son-in-law, Robert Landsinger; and grandchildren, Mitchell, Natalie and Christopher of San Francisco; sisters, Gisele Chickosky of Petaluma and Suzanne Poggi of Ajaccio, Corsica; brother, Jacques of Courcouronnes, France; and numerous nieces and nephews in the United States and France. Georges was inducted into I'Armee de I'Air Francaise (French Air Force) in 1939 at the onset of WWII, as one of the "Classe Quarante". He served as a bomber pilot with the Free French forces in Algeria until 1943 when President Roosevelt invited several crews of French fliers to the United States to learn to fly U.S. Lend-Lease airplanes. Georges was stationed in Denver, CO, where he met his wife at a "the dansant" for the visiting French pilots. He subsequently returned to Europe and flew many missions over enemy targets in Germany, attaining the rank of first lieutenant and being wounded in action. For his wartime service to France, Georges was awarded the Medaille de la Reconnaissance Francaise, and the Medaille d'Honneur de la Ville de Caen. After the war, Georges returned to Denver where he married Ollie in June 1946. They immediately relocated to San Francisco where Georges was employed by the City of Paris as manager of its famous Normandy Lane. He graduated from USF with a degree in business administration and accounting, and then joined his good friend Henri van der Voort in business, becoming sales manager at Bercut-Vandervoort for 16 years. He then founded his own company, Victoire Imports Inc., where he remained until retirement in 1982. Georges was always willing to help others who faced some of the same challenges that he had, in emigrating to another country and learning new ways and a new language. Over the years, Georges was president of the French Colony of San Francisco (two years); president of the Alliance Francaise (three years); and a member of numerous other French benevolent organizations: the Basque Club, the Ligue Henri IV, the Lafayette Club; the Anciens Combattants (French War Veterans); and the Livre Bleu. In 1958, President De Gaulle awarded Georges the Ordre de I'Etoile Noire for his work leading the French community in San Francisco. A well-known bon vivant with a lifelong interest in good food and wine, Georges was consul general of the Confrerie des Vignerons de Saint Vincent Macon for the United States; founder of the Academy of Wine Tasters; master knight of the Knights of the Vine; and longstanding member of the Cercle de I'Union (French Club) and the Vintners Club. His family, friends and new acquaintances were always welcome at the many meals which he would produce as "Maitre Cuisinier". During his retirement, Georges spent 23 years as a business advisor for the Service Corps of Retired Executives (SCORE), receiving the Platinum Leadership Award for meritorious service. He was always willing to provide help and advice to those trying to get a start in the food and wine industry. A Memorial Mass will be held on Monday, August 18, at 10 a.m. at Notre Dame des Victoires Church, 566 Bush St., San Francisco. In lieu of flowers the family asks that memorial donations be made to the American Lung Association, 115 Talbot Avenue, Santa Rosa, CA 95404 (www.lungusa.org).
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Published in the San Francisco Chronicle from 8/14/2008 - 8/17/2008


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Thursday, June 12, 2008

2008 Schedule

CALANDER 2008:

January 27, 2008 6:00 P.M. Feast of St. Vincent, Governor Hotel, Hosts: Steve Lutz and Kimberly Mick

February 17, 2008 3:00 P.M. O House, Lake Oswego, Host Yvonne Smith, Wine Chateauneuf du Pape

March 16, 2008 3:00 P.M. Place TBD, Host James (Doc) Wilson, Wine New Zealand

April 20, 2008 3:00 P.M. Roger Wooley Home, Wine White Burgundy

April 27 through May 13th Spring Fling, Bordeaux France: Host Steve Lutz and Kimberly Mick

June 22, 2008 3:00 P.M. (Moved to the fourth Sunday in June in honor of Fathers day) Place Burdigala, Host Mark Lindau/Steve Lutz, Wine Red Burgundy

July 20, 2008 3:00 P.M. Place Jack and Eileen Hines, Host Julie Virell and Arlene Harwood, Vine German Rieslings

August 17, 2008 1:00 P.M. August Initiation, Erath Vineyard, Host Dick Stinson

September 21, 2008 3:00 P.M. Place, the Home of John and Jaydene Chandler, Wine Pinot Noir

October 19, 2008 3:00 P.M. Place, the Home of John and Jaydene Chandler, Wine Easter Washington Wines

November 16, 2008 3:00 P.M. Place, the Home of Dick Stinson and Judy Erdman, Host Dick and Judy and Julie Virell, Wine Port

December 14, 2008 3:00 P.M. December Planning Meeting, Host Carey Sundeleaf, Wine Champagne

Monday, April 28, 2008

White Burgundy











Once again, a big "Thank you" goes out to Roger and Chris Wooley for hosting the April Confrerie event. The wines were very nice and I think we all gained some more insight as to why these wines are so prized around the world.
Doc Wilson











The Chardonnay grape is arguably the widest planted vinifera grape varietal in the world. This grape is grown world-wide and the wines produced from it can often be called: "winemakers wine" due to its ability to reflect what the winemaker does in the cellar.
The physical and spiritual home of Chardonnay though is the Burgundy region of France. The true origin of this grape is somewhat suspect, but it appears that it dates back to Roman times and that the grape is a cross between Pinot Noir and Gouais Blanc. Whatever the origin, this grape is being grown around the world. Chardonnay has the reputation of being hardy, adaptable and it grows with relative ease in a wide variety of climates. The "new world" style Chardonnay wines have a very ripe, almost tropical fruit component. Australia and California wines often show this trait. They also tend to have a buttery, oaky (vanilla) edge. The "buttery" component is due to malolactic fermentation which converts malic acid into the softer tasting lactic acid. The use of new oak barrels contributes a vanilla component to the wine, but it can also add hints of baking spices or even a toasted bread quality.

This past Saturday I had a chance to sample 11 Chardonnay wines from Burgundy. The wines were good examples of terroir driven wines. The winemakers used a minimal intervention approach (i.e. , the wine is made in the vineyard). Below is the line-up and my tasting notes.
While the above description and the attached tasting notes may seem a bit pretentious, the reality of these tasting are they are much less formal than it would appear and there is substantially much more "drinking" vs. "tasting" going on. As one of my friends says: "Wine, it's not brain surgery"

The "starter" wines of the afternoon were two Chablis wines.

Simonnet Febvre Chablis Millesime-2004: Mineral nose, tart citrus fruit with a nice minerality on the palate.

Simonnet Febvre Chablis Millesime-2005: Toasty nose, softer citrus fruit. I much preferred the 2004 vintage.

The first flight were three Bourgogne's. These wines are basic "table wines" by their designation, though they cost around $30.00/bottle.

Etienne Sauzet-Bourgogne 2005: Mineral nose, citrus fruit and honey on the palate. Nice clean finish.

Henri Boillot 2005: Smoke and oak on the nose, crisp fruit, dry finish.

D. Denis Mortet 2005: Mineral nose, minerally palate with crisp lemon/citrus fruit.
Jan Cullivan & Guest, John Montague & Guest














The second flight were three wines from Meursault. The Wikipedia entry says about Meursault:
Meursault is an Appellation d'origine contrôlée (AOC) situated in the Côte de Beaune subregion of the Burgundy wine region. It lies along the foot of the Cote-d'Or escarpment, around Beaune and with the broad Saône valley plain to its east. Meursault produces mainly white wines from Chardonnay grapes, primarily in a style with a clear oak influence, which have led to descriptions such as "buttery" to be applied to powerful examples of Meursault wines. Within the Meursault AOC there are some Premier Cru vineyards, but no Grand Cru. This has however not stopped the wines from Meursault from competing with the white burgundies from the villages Chassagne-Montrachet and Puligny-Montrachet, where several Grands Crus are situated.
The three wines in this flight were:
Guy Bocard - Meursault-Charmes 2004: Citrus on the nose with a hint of toast.

Guy Bocard - Meursault/ Le Narvaux 2004: Herbaceous nose, creamy mid-palate and a soft finish.

Guy Bocard - Meursault-Vielle Vignes (old vine) 2004: Complex honey/perfume nose, bright, crisp fruit with a creamy finish.

The last flight of the night was two wines from Puligny-Montrachet. The wines from Puligny-Montrachet have a complex minerality. The two wines in the flight were:

Louis Carillon - Puligny-Montrachet 2005: Savory nose and palate, bright lemony fruit, long finish.

Louis Latour - Puligny-Montrachet-"Sous Le Puits" 1st Cru 2005: A lively, with pleasant freshness, slight woody notes on the nose, more mineral. Citrus aromas of lemon, are first noticed, leading into more vegetable ones, fresh cut grass and menthol.

The last wine I tasted (since I was sitting next to Sam Sundeleaf who brought this wine to share after the "real" tasting) was:

Sam Sundeleaf











Michel Colin-Deleger & Fils - Saint-Aubin- 1st Cru "Les Combes" 2003: Big, powerful, toasty new-oak nose. Lots of nuttiness . The palate is very cool and classy. There is lovely clear orchard fruit and a definite mineral acidity. Juicy fruit, and really quite long and fine finish.
Jay F. & Guest-Photo: Courtesy of John Montague














All of these wines were nice and these are definitely "big boy" Chardonnay wines with the prices to go with them. The wines in the 2nd and 3rd flight would retail between $40-70/btl. These are wines that you want to share with people who would appreciate them.

Tuesday, April 8, 2008

Feast of St. Vincent

Here is a digital copy of the group photo taken at the 2008 Feast of St. Vincent.

















Top row: Mareesa Elquist, Shale Macks, Doctor Mark, Larry Walters, John Chandler
2nd Row: Doc Wilson, Arlene Harwood, Richard Stinson, Norm Schoen, Kathryn Daly, Beth Collins, Judy Erdman, Stephen Lutz
Bottom row: Kimberly Mick, Cindy Farrar, Kerri Sundeleaf, Jayden Chandler, Sharon House, Laurie Stoddard, Yvonne Newman, Olivia Walters

Held in the Rennaisance Room at the McGovern Hotel, Portland ,OR, January 27th, 2008. Saint Vincent Celebration

Portland, Oregon Chapter
Confrérie des Vignerons de Saint-Vincent de Mâcon